Trip Diary for August, 2007

Wednesday, Aug. 1: After a 7:45 AM captains' meeting to go over charts for the day's cruise, boats began leaving for Byng Inlet, 50 mi. away with 15 mi. of open Georgian Bay water.  The weather was again perfect with 5-10 mph SSW winds and 80 degree temperatures.  Leaving Killbear took us by many more wonderful "cottage" homes and Canada's most photographed/painted lighthouse at Pointe au Baril before traveling about 3 mi. from shore on the bay's open waters.  It had .5-1 ft. waves that gradually built to 1-2 beam seas before we turned east into Byng Inlet and the very nice Wright's Marina in Britt, ON.  Fortunately, the flotilla had spread out so staff were able to efficiently help everyone dock.  At 5:30 everyone gathered for a "finger food" carry-in.  The evening was devoted to showers and laundry.

Thursday, Aug. 2: With 68 mi. to cover, the flotilla left Byng Inlet en mass at 8 AM; the procession was quite a sight.  Weather was warm and hazy with SSW 10-15 mph winds that built waves to 3 ft. for much of the 20 mi. of open waters. Our route took us through the narrow but tremendously scenic Collins Inlet. Again, huge granite rocks were often very close as we passed narrow, but well marked stretches of the small channel; the Canadian strip maps were wonderful aids.  It was 3:20 PM when we passed the Killarney lighthouse before a challenging docking at the Sportsman's Inn with current and a crosswind.  Taking the provided water taxi across to the north shore, we joined several loopers for excellent whitefish and chips dinners at Herbert Fisheries, a.k.a. Mr. Perch, capped with excellent Farquhar ice cream going back to the boat.

Aug. 3-5; Little Current: Winds were forecast to build to 30 mph Friday afternoon, so despite needing to travel only 23 mi. most of the flotilla departed by 9 AM for Little Current, the largest town on Manitoulin Island with a population of 1,700 located at the island's northeastern end.  It is the true gateway to Lake Huron's North Channel.  Manitoulin, the world's largest fresh water island, is 74 mi. E-W and 30 mi. wide. The swing bridge at Little Current is the only road access to the island.  The bridge opens for boat traffic only on the hour, so we cruised at a leisurely pace to make its noon opening.  The flotilla had dock reservations, but to accommodate such a large group on Haweater's Festival weekend we were split between the Town Dock and Spider Marina.  The Lola Marie was assigned to Spider Marina, a 10 min. walk from town, and arrived outside its narrow entrance off the waterway with 5 other boats at 12:10 PM.  Boats were very slowly called in to dock as the remainder circled outside, trying to avoid other boat traffic and the rocky shoreline as winds, as forecast, built to 20-30 mph.  Shortly after 1 PM, 3 other flotilla boats that made the 1 PM bridge arrived; we were still awaiting a radio call to dock.  Eventually, 1.5 hr. after arrival and after all others had docked, we were called to tie at the fuel dock.  We skipped Saturday's Festival activities for a prearranged meeting with Dave Filmer and Christa Keck, colleagues from Purdue and Lafayette Rotary.  Following a delightful lunch at the Pantry, they drove us 12 mi. to McGregor Bay where, after Farquhar ice cream at J&G Marina, we boarded their boat for the 2 mi. ride to their beautiful log cottage on a 2-acre island, Charted #732.  Approaching, we were entertained by a family of loons instructing their young.  Views from their cottage were spectacular! After relaxing and visiting inside, they returned us to the boat for a 5 PM wine and cheese party hosted by the Jantz's at Spider Marina.  Little Current's Chamber of Commerce provided a school bus Sunday for a 75 mi. trip to Kagawong for its delightful Chocolate Works and beautiful Bridal Veil Falls, to M'Chigeeng First Nation Cultural Center and a picnic lunch, and finally to Ten Mile Post for its shop and view. Viewing much of the North Channel from 10 Mile Post's 200-ft. overlook was truly breath-taking.  In the evening, we joined loopers Jack and Patsy McCord aboard Honga, a 42-ft. Kadey-Krogen trawler at the Town Dock, to watch the Festival's lighted boat parade followed by a huge fireworks display.

Aug. 6-8; the Benjamins: The flotilla officially ended Monday so we followed Steve and Jean Purdy, Suncat, out of Spider at 11:15 AM to anchor in the beautiful and popular collection known as the Benjamin Islands in the North Channel.  Our almost perfect weather of the past 2 weeks was on the brink of change, so west winds were 15-20 and forecast for a complete 360 degree change over the next 36 hrs. with accompanying badly needed showers.  Waves in the E-W reaches of the trip were 2-3 ft. with an occasional 4, but on the nose so the ride was not uncomfortable.  After 3 anchor drops that were unsatisfactory due to poor holding or swinging proximity to some of the other 20+ boats in this anchorage, we finally found an acceptable position between the North and South Benjamin Islands.  Jim and Joan Elliott, loopers on Christine (40 ft. Pilgrim Trawler) whom we first met as we docked adjacent to them in Killarney, dropped by in their dinghy to invite us and Purdy's over for drinks and snacks.  Lola baked Brie cheese and Jean took tuna spread while Joan provided fruit and drinks.  We had a wonderful evening sharing family and loop experiences.  The night's anchorage was uneventful, but bouncy with frequent anchor chain noises interrupting sleep as the Lola Marie swung through winds that changed direction by 180 degrees (forecasts are occasionally accurate).  Tuesday morning was cloudy and 75 degrees with 15-20 mph east winds, the worst direction for our anchorage, producing 1-2 waves.  Steve radioed for us to dinghy out to explore the S. Benjamin, climbing its pink granite rocks. In addition to providing great views of our anchorage, we easily hiked to the south side of the island to view the "sow and pigs" rocks high above the crystal clear water. The six of us enjoyed desserts and conversations aboard the Lola Marie from 7:30-10 PM.  Rain finally arrived at 2 AM, but provided only .1 in. and insignificant drought relief.  Wednesday dawned sunny at 70 degrees with 15 mph WNW winds, a direction from which land prevented significant wave action.  At 10:15 AM we took the three dinghies on an extended exploration of the N. Benjamin and Fox Islands which provide the northern boundary to group of islands known collectively as "the Benjamin's."  Fox Island Harbour is a delightful, albeit small, anchorage. Finding an Inukshuk, mysterious stone figures found throughout the circumpolar world meaning "in the likeness of a human," in one of the small bays was a highlight of a beautiful tour and hike. Upon Joan's suggestion, we collected firewood during ground explorations and later toured our anchorage and also nearby Croker Island to invite all anchored loopers to a hot dog roast on N. Benjamin Island at 6 PM.  After showers, we boarded Sun Cat for 5 PM drinks followed by a wonderful evening cookout using a pre-existing fire ring. Obviously smelling food, a gaunt fox tried to join us.

Aug. 9-15; Gore Bay: We weighed anchor at 7:45 AM Thursday for an 18 mi. leisurely cruise to Gore Bay Marina.  Gore Bay is about mid-island on the north shore, a delightful town of 900 with an excellent marina 2 blocks from the stores.  As we arrived at 10:30, Dave and Christa arrived to treat us to a superb lunch at Twin Bluffs Bar & Grill before we cast off at 1 PM for an afternoon cruise to show them the Benjamin's.  We returned at 4:45 PM, in time to drive around the area to see Janet Head Lighthouse and the Marina from the eastern shore's high bank Lions Club Lookout before going to the small, but very active Rotary Club meeting in Gore Bay. Tired after 3 nights of interrupted sleep while anchoring, we turned in early.  Friday began with breakfast at Twin Bluffs and then exploring the town.  Skipping lunch, we worked on finances, pictures and web updates in the afternoon before an early dinner at the nearby Rocky Raccoon Cafe.  Saturday was a work day: in the morning Lola walked into town with two loads of laundry while Larry worked on boat projects; after lunch at Twin Bluffs, Lola ironed while Larry used the dinghy and FSR to remove the boat's portside brown mustache and then polished the area to prevent its quick return.  Tired, but pleased with accomplishments, we walked back into town for late pizza at Twin Bluffs.  Sunday was truly a day of rest.  We managed to get up in time for the 11 AM service at Lyons Memorial United Church, but the only other productive task was washing one more load of clothing just before taking the dinghy across the bay for an excellent dinner at Gordon's Lodge.  Gore Bay has such an excellent marina and town, Monday we decided to rent the slip another day so we could take advantage of having paid the full weekly amount to give us 3 more nights for the price of one.  Larry finished removing brown stains and polishing the starboard side of the hull while Lola cleaned inside.  Late in the afternoon, we walked into town to the laundry and dinner at Twin Bluffs.  Tuesday morning Larry took the dinghy fishing in Gore Bay; no catching, but nevertheless he very much enjoying the experience after a long gap.  Wednesday was devoted to boat projects and two walks into town to provision the boat for travel.  The wind forecast for tomorrow's departure was dubious.

Thursday, Aug. 16: Dropped lines at 7:35 AM for the short trip to the fuel dock for a bit of diesel, a pumpout and dinghy gasoline; underway at 7:55.  The long Gore Bay provided excellent protection from the NNW winds, so it appeared to be an okay day for the short 16 mi. cruise to Kagawong despite a forecast of 20-30 mi. afternoon winds.  As we reached the 40 mi. fetch of open water, waves quickly built to 4-5 ft. with occasional 6's!  We should have turned back, but having only 8 mi. of open water we decided to continue, quartering the waves to reduce roll (which, of course, also increased the travel distance).  Interior items in the boat, including plants and the file cabinet, soon spilled all over the floor and cockpit.  Finally, as we turned to have following quarter seas things improved to a barely tolerable level as we continued through Clapperton Channel and turned SE toward Mudge Bay.  Just then Lola noticed the dinghy had come off its back support, hanging precariously by only two of its three straps with the back end dragging in the water!  We immediately slowed to idle speed, Lola took the wheel and Larry put on his PDF and walked onto the swim platform for remedial action.  After lowering the lift, even idle speed provided too much side drag against the dinghy hull and engine to pull it back over the lift.  Lola put the engines in neutral for 60 seconds, risking turning abeam of still 2-3 ft. waves.  That was enough and we were quickly underway again.  Next a radio call was made to announce our impending arrival at Northern Marina where we had reservations.  They responded there was a "serious problem with your reservation."  Due to high winds forecast to increase throughout the day, none of the boats scheduled to depart were willing to leave (an attitude we could well appreciate); thus, no docks were available.  After more conversation, we agreed the best option was to anchor along the west shore of Mudge Bay about 2 mi. north of Kagawong.  We immediately turned due west, reaching 15 ft. of water with a sand bottom 800 ft. off shore just south of Gray Point and successfully set the anchor on the first attempt at 10 AM (it surely seemed longer than 2 hr. since leaving).  Loopers Joan Gordon and Mary Lou Hunt, Catnip Too, soon radioed to see how we were fairing and to discuss coming ashore for travel in their car.  Ultimately, it was agreed we would defer until tomorrow (hopefully, after docking at Northern Marina).  We spent the rest of the morning restoring order to the interior of the Lola Marie.  As forecast, winds increased to a sustained 30 mph before gradually subsiding to 10 mph as evening approached.  Our highest measured gust was 44 mph!  However, while we "twisted in the wind", the high west bank provided almost total protection from waves; the day was beautifully sunny with a 73 degree high.  We enjoyed a relaxed afternoon reading and playing Sudoku and Yahtzee.  Just before 8 PM we started the genny to bake M&M chicken skewers and a peach pie for dinner while batteries recharged for night duty with the anchor light and anchor watch alarm.  The wind died during the night; overall, an exposed anchorage, except to westerly winds, provided a delightful experience.

Aug. 17-18; Kagawong: It was 52 Friday morning at 6:30 AM; makes you think fall is coming.  We radioed Northern Marina at 10 AM for a status report; they now had a slip available, so we weighed anchor as winds were already building toward the forecast 20-25 mph for the afternoon.  Their marina entrance is very narrow with a tiny turning basin.  We entered with a stiff cross-wind blowing us toward rocks, but managed to dock without problems.  The day's high was 73.   Joan Hunt generously offered the loan of her car, so we drove 25 mi. to Little Current for Larry to acquire an anniversary gift he saw in the window of a shop closed for Haweater's weekend, Lola to purchase Christmas gifts, and for a light lunch at the Pantry.  Returning at 4 PM we had time only to shower before leaving at 5:30 with Mary Lou Gordon and Joan Hunt for a 30 mi. drive to the isolated Garden's Gate restaurant at the center of Manitoulin Island.  Bob and Wendy Ellen, managers of Northern Marina and fellow loopers, Northern Pelican, also drove to join us for fantastic dinners and great conversations. We returned to the Lola Marie at 9 PM for fresh peach pie and ice cream with Joan and Mary Lou.  The wind had now shifted to the north, blowing down the entire length of Mudge Bay to provide a noisy, twisting roll of the floating docks and significant boat rocking (the worst since Dunedin, FL in Jan. 06).  This did not begin to abate until 1:30 AM.  We slept in Saturday morning, but woke in time for Lola to bake brownies before taking Joan's car to the top of Kagawong's high hill for lunches at Riverside Take-Out, a small eatery adjacent to Bridal Veil Falls. This allowed us to return to the marina for ice cream in time for the start of its 7th annual Kagawong Cup sailboat race (7 boats participated) before returning up the hill for more Christmas shopping.  At 6 PM a wonderful potluck dinner started to celebrate the race and to enjoy great company.

Sunday, Aug. 19: We headed for an anchorage in Oak Bay just above Hotham Island at 9:25 AM, skipping church since it wasn't until 1:30 PM.  Winds were already 10-15 and increasing, producing 2 ft. waves.  Nevertheless, it was a cool (69), sunny day and Oak Bay provided good protection for anchoring with only two other boats.  After a light lunch we enjoyed a relaxed day reading.

Monday, Aug. 20: East winds were again forecast to increase by afternoon to 20-25 mph, so we weighed anchor at 7 AM to have almost calm seas for the brief 21 mi. cruise among protecting island channels to Beardrop Harbour north of John Island.  Legend says it got that name because Indians drove bears off the island over a steep cliff as seen from the anchored Lola Marie. After lunch we explored the beautiful harbor with the dinghy, stopping to welcome two other looper boats: Mystic Bond and Sarah Lynn, among the 13 at anchor.  Dinner was grilled M&M filet mignons followed by a glorious North Channel sunset as winds died for a most peaceful evening.

Aug. 21-22, Blind River: Tuesday was still another day with east winds forecast to reach 20 mph so we hoisted the anchor at 7:15 AM to leave for Blind River, ON, only 18 mi. west of Beardrop.  This enabled us to reach the excellent Blind River Marine Park by 9 AM with only 1-2 ft. following seas.  After getting up-to-date with the marina's free WiFi and showers, we enjoyed hamburger lunches at the on-site Marina Cafe before accepting the manager's offer of a ride into town to shop and re-provision before walking back to the boat.  We started a new puzzle before turning in.  Wednesday continued windy with overcast sky, sprinkles and light fog (despite wind!); however, the forecast was for the wind to die overnight.  It was a good day to use the marina's large laundry and for Larry to complete his monthly computer Windows updates.  We again took advantage of the manager's one-way trip into town for electronics and a marginal dinner at Lake View restaurant.  We returned to finish the puzzle just before midnight.

Return to the U.S.

Aug. 23-24, Drummond Island, MI: We were up Thursday at 6 AM with no wind, but fog!  After breakfast and checking the forecast, we concluded conditions would not change before afternoon and decided to leave at 7:20 AM.  The open water of the North Channel was flat with only 1/8 mi. and occasionally less visibility for the first 4 hr.  With radar and a careful watch, we averaged 8.6 mph for the 47 mi. to Drummond Island Yacht Haven.  The fog lifted as we exchanged the Canadian courtesy flag for the quarantine flag and crossed into U.S. waters at Potagannissing Bay.  Shortly thereafter we passed Harbor Island and the Lola Marie crossed her wake (we anchored there in June of 2003 on her maiden voyage with us and the Hawks); technically, we completed America's Great Loop!  Customs officers arrived at the boat within 5 min. after we docked.  It took only 5 min. to compete their forms and receive a return number.  After a snack lunch we walked half a mile to the post office.  On the return walk, we visited the excellent Drummond Island Historical Museum where Lola finally saw the bear she had been hoping to see throughout our Canadian travels. Not having WiFi or cell service at the marina, we rented one of their cars to drive 2.5 mi. to Four Corners for groceries at Sune's IGA store, excellent dinners at Northwood Restaurant & Bar (Larry was able to get unsweetened iced tea for the first time since entering Canada on July 9) and then WiFi at the Drummond Island Tourism Assoc.  There were minor sprinkles through the evening as fog returned.  As we readied for bed, Larry went to the cockpit fridge for a bottle of water and two small bats flew into the salon!  Fortunately, encouraged by loud voices and a fly swatter, they quickly returned to the cockpit and we re-closed the door.  Larry then opened a cockpit curtain window and managed to get what turned out to be 3 bats to leave for the night.  Friday morning was a good day to sleep in before enjoying Lola's delicious hot brunch.  For the second day in a row we had little wind and fog; a welcome change from the past two weeks.  After late afternoon showers we met and visited with James Taylor and Rennie Criswell, loopers aboard Arundel (42 ft. Marine Trader) who arrived mid-afternoon.  At 5 PM we again rented the car to enjoy all-you-can-eat whitefish dinners at Northwood Restaurant & Bar.

Aug. 25-26, De Tour Village, MI: Significant rain finally began at 7 AM Saturday.  The sun came out about 11 after .6 in.; not enough to break the drought, but a most welcome usable shower.  We showered while doing laundry before departing for De Tour State Dock at 12:25 PM.  Winds were light as we left, but changing from W to N and building toward 10-15 in the hour and 15 min. it took us to cover 9 mi.  The chart plotter gave us concern for about 5 min. as it first became full of horizontal streaks and then showed everything in a mirror (reverse) format before clearing up and working normally.  US cell service returned!  It was nice to be able to make/receive calls without international roaming charges.  Lola ironed while Larry grilled pork chops for dinner aboard before we walked .5 mi. to the center of town, enjoying the unique character of this village of 865 and some ice cream in the process.  Sunday morning we walked into town to the Union Presbyterian Church parking lot to await pickup, pre-arranged by phone with pastor Judy Arnold, to Malette Park a mile south of town where they were holding a special worship service along the shore of De Tour Passage.  The outdoor service was immediately followed by a carry-in picnic with large portions of delicious food.  Don and Helen Marlatt then returned us to town for shopping before we walked back to the boat.  After a relaxed afternoon aboard we walked 2 blocks to the Mainsail Restaurant & Saloon for their WiFi and excellent dinners.  All-in-all, a wonderful 51st anniversary!

Aug. 27-29; St. Ignace: The Monday wind forecast was for less than 5 mph winds for early morning and into the afternoon, so we castoff at 7:20 expecting flat seas.  Both the forecast and our expectations were wrong.  SW 10 mph winds had created 2 ft. rollers that gave an uncomfortable, twisting ride for the first 1.5 hr. after rounding the De Tour Lighthouse to head west before both slowly subsided over the next 2 hrs.  We arrived at the outstanding St. Ignace Municipal Marina at noon, perfect timing to dock and have hamburgers across the street at the Marina Pub.  We then walked 5 blocks through the bulk of the business district.  The water has been quite clear throughout the Georgian Bay and North Channel, but this is the clearest we have experienced; you can see the bottom in more than 30 ft. of water!  Tuesday was devoted to washing the boat and cleaning inside.  All meals were aboard!  After dinner we started a new puzzle.  We finished the puzzle Wednesday morning before heading to the Galley for a light lunch, capped by walking across the street for ice cream from Zak's Kandy Haus.  Returning, Larry fixed the autopilot's fluxgate compass intermittent problem (poor internal connections) while Lola read.

Aug. 30-31; Mackinaw City: With only 8 mi. to cover parallel to the "Mighty Mac" bridge, we left Thursday at 10:45 for the Mackinaw City Marina.  Along the way we paused long enough to re-swing/calibrate the fluxgate compass (going slowly around twice in a large circle).  After checking in we walked 2 blocks to Scalawags for delicious whitefish and chips before enjoying Kilwin's ice cream for the first time since April in Charleston, SC!  Friday morning we 18 mi on the shuttle bus to Cheboygan, MI to rent a car from Wheeler Chevrolet so we could pick up Sandy and Klaus Leitem who would spend the next week with us.  We had planned to return the rental the next morning, so we were very disappointed to learn the shuttle did not run on weekends; the only option would be a taxi.  With the car, we reprovisioned in Cheboygan and had lunch at McDonald's, our first such in two months.  After dropping the groceries at the boat, we left for Charlevoix via brief shopping visits to Harbor Springs and Petosky.  Sandy and Klaus arrived from Noblesville at 8:15 PM.  After a quick dinner at The Villager Pub, we drove to Lowell and Sharon Blossom's, Twowowie, beautiful home on Lake Charlevoix. We initially met them in Brewerton, NY where they invited us to utilize their dock as we returned and now were offering to keep the Leitem car until we boated into their dock.  It was 11:45 PM when we finally got back to the boat.

Water miles traveled to date: 9,359; this month: 467.

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