Trip Diary for March, 2006

Wednesday, Mar. 1:  We dropped lines from Key Colony Beach Marina at 8 AM.  The wind had subsided during the night to only 7 mph and the temperature was 71 with a cloudless sky.  The 17 mi. ocean passage to the 65 ft. clearance Channel #5 Bridge was very pleasant with only 1-2 swells and the occasional boat wake.  We were surprised by the amount of ocean "traffic"; 10-20 fishing boats were always in sight.  Crossing under the bridge returned us to Gulf waters and the ICW.  We traveled 51 mi. to a delightful Tarpon Basin anchorage just north of Key Largo, arriving early at 2:30 PM.  The weedy bottom required 3 attempts to get the anchor to hold.  After relaxing with a beautiful sunset from the bridge, we enjoyed a delicious dinner of seafood stuffed chicken Lola had cooked in the crock pot while we traveled.

Thursday, Mar. 2: We washed down and weighted the anchor at 7:25 AM after a peaceful, gorgeous sunrise. Upon passage through the Jewfish Creek bridge, our stay in the FL Keys ended.  To Lola's delight, the huge Biscayne Bay was flat and provided a glorious view of the Miami skyline. Despite covering 55 mi., needing two bridge openings and the several Miami no wake zones, we arrived at the Palm Bay Club & Marina by 3 PM.  A substantial amount of hurricane Wilma damage, both to the condos, marina and boats was still evident. The arrival surprise was an "auto-defrosting" refrigerator, again!  We attempted past fixes: removing all food and total defrosting.  By bedtime, its status was still questionable.

Ft. Lauderdale; Mar. 3-12: The overnight refrigerator test result was not good, but we now had solid problem symptoms: its AC circuit breaker was off and would trip within 3 seconds of turning it on.  We moved all food into coolers and the ice maker.  This delayed departure until 10 AM Friday, but with only 21 miles to go we still made the south docks at the Hall of Fame Marina in Ft. Lauderdale by 1:30 PM despite many no-wake stretches and needing two bridge openings.  Our waterway guides accurately characterized this stretch of water as "condo canyon." Boat congestion had been high in Miami but the Ft. Lauderdale harbor was incredible! After getting connected and registered we started trying to find a refrigeration-qualified marine service; the more numerous RV service dealers required us to "just bring it in."  The best we came up with only promised to "try to get an on-site scheduled Monday or Tuesday."  We decided to forget our troubles by taking a free shuttle into the River Front area (3 mi. away) to purchase tickets for the King Tut exhibit at the Art Museum and for dinner.  Returning, we worked on a puzzle until midnight.  After a late breakfast and showers Saturday morning, we caught the bus to go to the King Tut exhibit.  We spent 3 hours at this outstanding display of Pharaoh treasures, 75% of which were from King Tutankhamun's tomb. Before catching the shuttle to return, we enjoyed dinner at the Cheesecake Factory.  Sunday began with a bus ride to the Ft. Lauderdale FUMC where Purdue's Men's Glee Club will be singing next Sunday.  After church, we enjoyed a late lunch downtown and then toured the huge open-air Art Fair; to our delight, we stumbled upon a Kilwin's Ice Cream store.  It also became obvious why Ft. Lauderdale is often called the "Venice of America."  Upon returning, Larry diagnosed the refrigerator problem as a shorted compressor.  Monday's call to the refrigerator repair service confirmed it was not worth repairing.  Next was a 9 AM, 8 mi. bus trip to a local lab for wellness blood work.  Unfortunately, despite its on-line listing as being in the national healthcare system Purdue's insurance requires, it had moved and was not drawing anymore.  Returning to the bus terminal for the transfer required to reach the boat, Larry failed to note the "fine print" on the duplicated bus route number; the result was boarding a bus going west instead of east.  While we soon recognized the error, we chose to complete the circuit as a sight seeing tour.  It quickly became clear that all of Ft. Lauderdale is not like the mega-yacht and beach districts.  An interesting trip, but it was 12:30 PM when we again reached the terminal so we decided on another downtown lunch.  After finally returning, we rented a car to better shop for a new refrigerator and to find a new lab location.  Tuesday was incredibly busy driving all over the community to a blood drawing lab, refrigerator shopping, acquiring charts for the forthcoming trip, and a bit of general shopping. After turning in the car at 5 PM, we spent the evening finishing the puzzle started 3 weeks ago. Wednesday AM was laundry time followed by sandwiches at the nearby Quarterdeck and then a brief walk along the beach.  This was the first week for college spring breaks, so it was "well occupied." West Marine called at 2:45 to report our new refrigerator had arrived from their S. Carolina warehouse and would be delivered in 30 min.  Larry spent the evening assembling and partially installing it, but because it had been shipped on its side, we were cautioned to let it remain vertical for 24 hr. before turning it on; so we continued adding ice to coolers.  A relaxed Thursday morning included a bit more laundry.  After a fine lunch next door at Coconuts Bahama Grill, we took a bus to West Marine for hose needed to connect the refrigerator defrost drain.  Upon returning, we finished installing the refrigerator and turned on the power; it worked!  We gratefully returned food from coolers to a fridge.  Friday morning Lola took a bus to get her nails refurbished and grocery shop while Larry began working on the list of "boat projects".  In the afternoon, Kip Shustak from the sailboat Aanoosh anchored in nearby Lake Sylvia dinghyed over for a brief visit about Ft. Lauderdale and shared key parts of his loop experience.  The evening was devoted to a bus ride downtown for a river walk and a visit to Kilwin's.  Saturday AM was a shopping excursion to West Marine for Larry to acquire needed electrical supplies for his boat projects and to pick up a few more groceries (bus transportation limits what can be carried, so several small sorties are better than our typical trip).  Two major boat projects were completed in the afternoon.  We grilled steaks acquired on the morning shopping excursion, charted the forthcoming travel to Palm Beach, showered and retired early.  We caught the 9 AM bus Sunday in order to attend the special spiritual concert by the Purdue Men's Glee Club at FUMC; it was fabulous!  We next attended an excellent luncheon for the Glee Club at church.  On the return bus trip we completed provisioning for departure.  Traffic was incredible near the beach; it was 3 PM by the time we got back.  The remainder of the afternoon was spent getting the boat ready: pumpout, washdown, water refilling, etc.

N. Palm Beach; Mar. 13-15: We dropped lines Monday at 6:50 AM, leaving this port with its incredible supply of mega-yachts!  The 51 mi. trip to Old Cove Marina involved 21 bridges, 9 of which had to open for us and were on restricted schedules.  The many bridges, no wake zones, and rapid tide flows had us nervous about this segment of the trip.  Luckily, we fell in behind and followed the sailboat Gauneka that knew the optimal pace and also initiated all requests to bridge tenders.  We experienced only two 10-min. waits and one 20-min. wait; thus, we arrived at 2:35 PM, about 1.5 hr earlier than anticipated.  Gerry and Phyllis Isaacs, former head of Purdue's Agricultural Engineering department who hired Larry to that faculty, and Peter, their grandson who is currently a freshman at Purdue, arrived at 7:15 PM and treated us to a fine Italian dinner at Carrabba's.  After getting saltwater fishing supplies Tuesday, the men went ocean fishing at Worth Lake Inlet while the ladies stayed ashore and spent 3 hr. at the Whitehall Flagler Museum.  Flagler was a founding partner of Standard Oil Company and an incredible FL developer.  SE 10-15 winds gradually increased to 15-20, so ocean waves/swells grew to 3-5 ft.  After 4 hr. of rearranging the boat's interior without catching fish, the men quit.  They were delighted upon returning to find a manatee the ladies had spotted lounging in the marina was still around, our ever first sighting! Isaacs' departed after breakfast Wednesday and Lola began laundering while Larry started repairing problems uncovered and/or caused by the rough sea.  At 3 PM we walked to Carrabba's for lunch/dinner and then to the grocery store.

Thursday, Mar. 16: Since we were going only 33 mi., we departed at a leisurely 9:40 AM.  As we moved north high rise condos gradually diminished into many beautiful waterway homes. Shortly after our 2:40 PM arrival at Nettle's Island Marina Larry's cousin Sally Sprague and her husband Willis who have a house on Nettle's Island arrived at the dock.  They gave us a tour of this man-made island and we enjoyed dinner and a great evening's conversation with them.

Friday, Mar. 17: Sally and Willis came to the dock to help us cast off at 8 AM for the 61 mi. trip to Melbourne Harbor Marina.  With no bridge opening needed and only a few no wake reaches, we made the marina by 4 PM and were pleasantly surprised to find 3 other AGLCA boats.  Weather continued to be ideal with gentle breezes and a 79 degree high.  Today's shores were less densely populated than those passed since Miami with long stretches having homes on only one side.  Nevertheless, we saw many beautiful homes. We closed the day with an extravagant, but superb dinner at the Chart House, only a block from our dock.

Saturday, Mar. 18: The 22 mi. to Cocoa required only 3 interesting hours.  We finally managed to photograph dolphins that often play near the boat with no apparent fear of getting hit. The Palm Shores/Pineda bridge hosted an incredible flock of cormorants. We marveled at how tending crab pots attracted so many pelicans (obviously, they were occasionally fed). Cocoa is a delightfully friendly village with a rebuilt and newly renamed Cocoa Village Marina. We thought we had reservations for two days, but that wasn't their understanding; they could accommodate only one night.  So we explored the village, ate a late lunch/early dinner and returned to plan where to relocate tomorrow.

Titusville; Mar. 19-21: Dockage was available Sunday at Titusville Municipal Marina, only 20 mi. from Cocoa with NASA's Vertical Assembly Building clearly in view across the Indian River.  River width varied from 1.5-3 mi. along this segment, so it seemed like we were traveling in a large bay.  Upon heading to the office for check-in, we came upon a manatee family (mother, father and youth) at one of the docks, our first truly close-up views. About 4:30 PM we walked a mile into town and then another to the huge Dixie Crossroads restaurant for a fabulous lobster, king crab, scallops and shrimp dinner!  Monday was a "down" day for sleeping-in, general boat cleaning, catching up business matters, and reading.  While Larry was washing down the boat, one of the dozen local manatees paid a visit (they like drinking fresh water). Larry grilled brats for dinner.  Tuesday morning was laundry time with the afternoon devoted to walking into town for groceries and exploring.  Several AGLCA boats checked in during the afternoon while the 87 degree temperature caused us to turn on the AC.  Bill and Ruth invited three other couples: us plus Lenny and Roxanne Nelson from Summertime and Pat and Jane Murray from Freedom, to Integrity for drinks before taking taxies to Dixie Crossroads for outstanding seafood dinners.

Daytona Beach; Mar. 22-23: Last evening's 15 min. rainfall was a precursor to significant cooling (20 degrees) and 15 mph north breezes.  We left dock at 8:30 AM for a pleasant, but uneventful trip to the huge Halifax Harbor Marina.  The ICW narrowed after the first 20 mi.  Despite 8 mi. of no wake zones, we covered the 48 mi. by 3 PM.  After washing down the boat, we walked 8 blocks to Stavro's Pizza House for superb Greek salad and pizza.  Thursday afternoon we bussed to one of the modest shopping centers in region.  After working on a travel log presentation for Lafayette Exchange Club, we walked to Stavro's for a repeat dinner and to mail cards and letters.

St. Augustine; Mar. 24-27: It was only 57 (high was 66) as we departed Daytona Beach at 7:15 AM with winds building to 10-20; what a difference a little passing front makes!  Except near Palm Coast, homes along the ICW were much more modest than those south of Titusville.  We covered the 54 miles to St. Augustine Municipal Marina by 2:15 PM; only a single bridge opening was required and it was on demand.  Other than a bad waking by an overtaking 4788 Bayliner, the trip went well despite the wind.  The combination of wind and strong river cross current made docking a challenge, but Larry made it without damage on the second attempt.  Many AGLCA boats were checked in here; twenty of us met for dinner at the excellent Habana Village Cafe nearby the marina. Saturday dawned a cool 46, even on 62 degree water, with a forecast for land temps of 37 tonight!  St. Augustine is a unique city, the oldest continuously operating city in the nation with a fantastic rich mix of archeologically classic buildings. Ponce de Leon, then governor of what became Puerto Rico and the European to discover continental N. America and claim it for Spain, came ashore here in 1513 and Don Pedro Menendex de Aviles established a settlement he named St. Augustine in 1565.  The city's Spanish origins are everywhere apparent, including the famous Castillo de San Marcos, the massive fort that long served to protect the region from pirates and foreign invasions where we enjoyed a staged firing of the canon. At 6:30 PM, 13 AGLCA members met aboard the Lola Marie for a delightful carry-in dinner.  We left the boat Sunday at 9 AM for breakfast at the Bunnery Bakery & Cafe and to attend 11 AM services at Grace United Methodist Church.  This beautiful church, the design of which was influenced by Henry Flagler whose impacts are everywhere apparent in eastern FL, is not of "typical Methodist architecture." Church members invited us to accompany them to the local art festival where we also had lunch.  We then continued our walking tour of this historic city, visiting: Ponce de Leon Park (and it's famous Fountain of Youth with sulfur-tasting water); Magnolia Street with its beautiful lining of huge Oak trees (don't know why Oaks line a street named Magnolia); the "Old Senator" 600-yr. old Oak; the "love tree" (note the palm tree growing through the oak tree) under which a kiss of one's mate is reputed to assure togetherness for eternity; and numerous excellent shops.  Upon arrival in St. Augustine the dockmaster claimed this city had more good restaurants per capita than any city in the U.S. (1,200 population and probably 5,000 tourists); in addition to the two confirming data points we had already collected the coup de grace evidence for us was finding two Kilwin's stores within 5 blocks of one another!  Total distance: about 7 miles!  We returned too tired to cook or go out so we ate left-over Stavro's pizza and a caramel-walnut apple from Kilwin's for dinner.  Gerry and Phyllis Isaacs arrived from Gainesville Monday after 10 AM.  We spent the day visiting the Lightner Museum, Conch House Restaurant, Fort Matanzas and the St. Augustine Lighthouse.  The 219 steps up the lighthouse rewarded one with a spectacular view of the harbor. We ended a delightful day with dinner at Sonny's and good conversation aboard the boat before retiring.

Tuesday, Mar. 28: Isaacs headed back to Gainesville and we dropped lines at 9 AM for the 57 mi. trip north to Amelia Island Yacht Basin.  By running an hour and benefiting from a 2-4 mph following current for 40% of the way, we made port by 2:45 PM.  Tides were 8.5 ft. here and we arrived at dead low; thus, we barely made it through the marina's channel.  The early arrival allowed time for a washdown of the boat, showers and laundry before Larry grilled steak for dinner.  The wind turned from north to south, so it has finally warmed (71 degree high).

Wednesday, Mar. 29: An 8:40 AM departure at high tide; thus, no problem with water depths.  Six miles north we stopped at Fernandina's Florida Petroleum to take on 300 gal. of fuel at $2.29, $.40-.50 cheaper than other sources in the region.  Shortly thereafter, we entered GA.  We weren't so fortunate today, bucking 2-3 mph currents much of the way.  Still, we made the 37 mi. to Jekyll Harbor Marina by 3 PM, in time to drive their courtesy car 18 mi. around Jekyll Island and to purchase a few groceries.  We chose dockside SeaJay's delicious Lowcountry Boil Buffet for a great dinner.

Brunswick, GA; Mar. 30-31: With a 9.5 ft tide, we timed our Thursday departure for the 9 AM high to minimize current and maximize available water for the short 3 mi., but navigationally challenging, passage through Jekyll Creek.  Little did we expect the passenger ship American Spirit would use the same rationale and meet us at the narrow and most difficult northern entrance bend. While she didn't request it, we decided to move as far starboard as possible and stop for her to pass.  The scenery changed from Florida's inhabited banks to vast expanses of brown topped marsh grasses as shown in this picture taken at the northern end of Jekyll Creek with the new, beautiful Sidney Lanier suspension bridge to Brunswick in the background. We made it to a slip near the dockmaster's office at the friendly, excellent Brunswick Landing Marina by 10:40, so we had plenty of time to settle in before walking 2 blocks to McGarvey's Wee Pub for delicious hamburgers and nachos.  Following lunch, we walked through the waterfront's historic downtown district. Upon returning, we updated the web, worked on Exchange business and Lola baked chicken cordon bleu for dinner.  At noon Friday Enterprise picked us up to rent another car.  Following a light Applebee's lunch and ice cream at the nearby Bruster's, Lola was able to get nails reworked while Larry shopped in the vicinity at Radio Shack and Boater's World.  We spent the remainder of the afternoon exploring Brunswick and grocery shopping.  We then drove to beautiful St. Simon's Island for a dinner of truly incredible she-crab soup and 7 oz. lump crab cakes at Barbara Jean's.

Water miles traveled this month: 579 (total 4362).

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