Trip Diary for May, 2007

Tuesday, May 1: It was only 35 mi. to excellent South Harbour Village Marina in Southport, NC, so we left at a leisurely 9:30 AM.  This was intended to time Sunset Beach swing bridge hourly opening, but favorable tide currents got us there 20 min. early.  With ideal weather, but waterway developments slowing us, we reached the marina at 2:25 PM.  A key reason for stopping here again was Joseph's Italian Bistro,  the best Italian restaurant and maybe the best overall we've found on the loop.  Because good restaurants will not be available on Lola's forthcoming birthday, we celebrated it early with dinner at Joseph's.

Wednesday, May 2: Winds were forecast to increase to 10-20 today, so we left at 6:45 AM and ran for the 10 mi. of the Cape Fear River.  Another 20 min. bridge wait, this time at the Surf City Swing Bridge, put us into new Beach House Marina in Surf City at 12:05 PM.  The early arrival provided plenty of time to walk 3 blocks into the town and visit its beach.

Thursday, May 3: Another early 6:45 AM departure to beat the daily afternoon higher winds.  The weather is cooler (high of 71) and slightly overcast.  About 20 mi. up the ICW we reached the Onslow Swing Bridge.  After a 15 min. wait for its 9:30 opening, we passed behind a trawler and noticed a runabout with US Navy markings.  Almost immediately we heard a radio transmission to the two boat urging us to make haste in traveling through this reach of waterway because they were soon to close the ICW to boat traffic while the conducted live fire exercise over the waterway.  Needless to say, we followed that advice.  Over the next 5 mi. we came across 5 Coast Guard RIBs and 2 additional Navy runabouts.  Just after passing the last navy boat and a waterway warning sign witch was now lighted, the shelling began!  The next navigational challenge occurred as we approached the 65 ft. Beaufort Channel Highway Bridge; a dredge pulling a 1/4 mi. of pipes was just entering at a speed of less than 2 mph.  While the water at other than the designated opening was probably adequate, we chose the safer plan and waited 20 min. for it to clear.  This put us into the excellent Morehead City Yacht Basin at 2 PM.  Jessica Beasley, the older daughter of Dave and Jan, who works at the UNC Institute of Marine Sciences picked us up at 6:15 and took us to Beaufort's Aqua restaurant for unusual, excellent "small plate" servings; we shared "buy 2, get 2 free" of these in a "family style" dinner.  We returned to the Lola Marie for dessert and conversation.

Friday, May 3; Morehead City: We rented the marina's van for 2 hrs. to grocery shop and eat lunch.  After returning, Lola caught up on laundry and we walked to the Sanitary Fish Market & Restaurant for dinner; in general, an R&R day.

May 5-8; Oriental, NC: Saturday was cloudy with 10-15 mph winds as we cast off at 9:10 for the short 25 mi. run to Oriental Marina.  Other than a fairly bad waking in the Newport River 15 min. into the trip, it was uneventful and pleasant.  Beam waves in the Neuse River crossing reached 2 ft., but only for 15 min. before our 11:50 arrival. However, severe weather was in the making.  We were in the very middle of conflicting low and high pressures that were forecast to produce 35-45 mph sustained winds with 60 mph gusts lasting for 2-3 days!  We joined loopers Robert and Ann Levine from the power catamaran Sandpiper for excellent dinners at the marina's Toucan restaurant.  Exactly as forecast, bad weather arrived with an inch of rain at 12:35 AM Sunday followed by building winds.  As we returned from the 11 AM service at Oriental UMC the usual .5 ft. tides here were being augmented by a N wind surge.  While forecast to reach as much as 4-6 ft., streets in front of the marina began flooding at 3 ft.  We were warned that at 5 ft. the marina would turn off power to its docks.  With several looper boats socked in, Lola invited 4 other couples to come aboard for pie at 7:30 PM.  We spent a delightful evening conversing with and getting to know the other boaters: Bob and Ann Levine from Sandpiper, Steve and Jean Purdy on Sun Cat (who brought the best 1985 Port wine we've tasted), Paul and Mini Aldrich aboard Refuge, and Dan and Kathy Rolls from Ariel.  Fortunately, the surge peaked at only 4 ft. during the night, but we were up periodically to check about the need to re-tie lines as these were fixed docks.  Monday dawned sunny, still windy and much cooler (low of 54).  The marina organized a 10 AM van run to the grocery store (about a mile away).  If you must hide from weather such as this, you could hardly find a better place.  This marina is well protected from wind and waves, the people are friendly and helpful, and the facilities are quite good.  If you want more info, the city maintains a comprehensive web site that includes a live webcam of the marina area.  The troublesome low was stalled offshore of the NC-SC border, so strong winds were forecast until Thursday, but began to slowly subside Tuesday morning.  Phone calls with Dave Beasley revised the plan for his family to board in Oriental instead of Dowry Creek, for boating with us to Norfolk; they arrived at 8:15 PM.  Just prior to their arrival, we enjoyed great shrimp dinners with 12 other loopers at Steamer's.

Wednesday, May 9: The six of us embarked at 7 AM to take advantage of lighter morning winds and because we had 100 mi. to cover.  We had the pleasure of traveling with Sandpiper the entire trip.  Waves on the Neuse, Pamlico Sound and Bay River exceeded 2 ft. only briefly as we ran that entire 25 mi. segment at 18.5 mph in intermittent, light rain. We also ran on the Pungo River and 5 of the 20 mi. of Alligator River. The AGLCA burgee began to disintegrate, so Larry exchanged it for the new one we carried (our 3rd on the trip). We reached the Alligator River Bridge at 2:30 PM and, after waiting for several other boats also arriving at Alligator River Marina, were docked by 3 in what became a full marina.  Larry grilled brats for dinner.

Thursday, May 10: Winds laid overnight for our 7:30 AM castoff; waves on the Albemarle Sound were 1 ft. or less.  At the northern part of the sound entering the Pasquotank River we encountered light fog with about 1/4 mi. visibility; our first opportunity to use the radio's electronic foghorn which switches between listening mode to a 5 sec blast every 2 min.  The fog lifted as we approached Elizabeth City.  Fishing was serious north of the city. Next was the beautiful, narrow, winding stretch of the Pasquotank with its tea colored water. Arrival at the South Mill Bridge & Lock was timed for its 1:30 PM opening.  It was then only 5 mi. to the Dismal Swamp Welcome Center dock, but canal conditions dictate 5-6 mph so we ran only the starboard engine to arrive at 3 PM.  Ultimately, 3 sailing boats, a 40 ft. sailing catamaran Spirit rafted from us, and the Lola Marie docked for a quiet night.  The genny allowed Lola to cook sweet potatoes while Larry grilled pork chops for a fine onboard dinner.  Not wanting to disturb other boaters by running the genny at night meant electricity via only house batteries, so we turned in early with just fans and open windows to cool us on a rather muggy evening.

May 11-13; Norfolk, VA: We dropped lines at 7:50 AM Friday to make the scheduled 11 AM opening at Deep Creek bridge and lock 17 mi. north of the Welcome Center.  The port engine at 5-6 mph made a very relaxed trip except for the occasional "bump" as one touched a submerged log.  The bridge opened after locking up south-bound boats, so we had a 30 min. wait.  By 1:20 PM we were docked at the excellent Waterside Marina.  Beasley's one-way rental soon arrived and they departed for home.  Following a boat rinsing, one laundry load and showers, we walked 4 blocks to the MacArthur Center for a late dinner at Max & Irma's.  Saturday morning was a time to sleep in before starting weekly boatkeeping chores.  Charley from Dive Masters, come by to install new shaft and trim tab zincs (6 in all) while Lola had nails and toes reworked.  After no lunch, we went to dinner at the dockside Outback's before showers and two more laundry loads.  Sunday began with the 11 AM Epworth United Methodist Church service.  It was misting rain and much cooler today (low tonight to be 50).  Using local advice received during last June's visit, we then enjoyed an outstanding Mother's Day seafood lunches at Freemason Abbey just across the corner from the church. It's great to be back in the Chesapeake for real crab cakes!  For the evening's dinner we joined loopers Bob and Liz Stagg, Second Wind, and Paul and Jane Cowhig, Happy Destiny from Indianapolis, at 6 PM to ride the river ferry to Portsmouth and enjoy excellent Mexican cuisine at La Tolteca.

May 14-18; windy Deltaville, VA: We cast off Monday at 7:45 AM for Portsmouth Boat Center, 1.5 mi. away, to fuel and pump-out.  Unfortunately, while they had good prices ($2.26), one fuel pump was down so it required 1.25 hr. to take on 220 gal.  Norfolk harbor was very busy with both naval and commercial traffic.  We managed to get between a destroyer and a container ship for much of the way.  It was a beautiful day on the Chesapeake with 5-10 mi. winds and a high of 67.  Waves did not exceed 1 ft. until the last hour when they peaked at 2-3 as the south wind picked up to 10-15 before a 2:15 PM arrival at our favorite Deltaville, VA marina, Dozier's Regatta Point Yacht Center.  We originally planned to stay only 2 nights, but high winds were forecast for the entire week.  Four other AGLCA boats arrived shortly after us: Happy Destiny, Sandpiper, Second Wind, and Mike and Jeanne Linden aboard Jeanne Marie.  Bob and Ann invited all aboard Sandpiper for drinks and munchies; Jack and Craig Dozier, marina owners and publishers of the wonderful Waterway Guides, joined us.  At 7 PM, Jack took 5 of us and the owner of the Galley Seafood Restaurant picked up 5 for wonderful dinners.  Tuesday's weather followed the forecast: 17-22 mph winds and a high of 85.  A good day for laundry, grocery re-stocking, Lola's haircut and clean-up.  Jack and Craig provided wine for our happy-hour.  Everyone chipped in brats, hot dogs, & veggie burgers for Paul (Happy Destiny) to cook on the marina's gas grill for a delightful picnic dinner. Then we boarded the Lola Marie for Lola's signature refrigerator pies. Wednesday dawned sunny and windy; the small craft advisory was extended through Thursday with Saturday looking like the first good day for boating on the Chesapeake.  To celebrate Robert's (Sandpiper) birthday, 10 loopers plus Rich and Irma from New Bern on Blue Skies went to Cocomo's for good dinners before returning to Sandpiper for chocolate or carrot cake just as the front arrived with rain and more wind.  By Thursday morning we had received .7 in. of rain, temperatures were 20 degrees cooler, and winds had shifted from S to N, but were still 15-20 mph; ideal weather if you don't want to boat on the Chesapeake.  The day was devoted to ironing (Lola) and boat projects (Larry).  At 5:30 the 12 of us gathered on the marina's long porch for margaritas and munchies, declared by the admirals to be dinner.  Winds were subsiding, so Larry and Bob Stagg agreed to check at 5:30 AM and wake everyone if conditions were tolerable for a 60 mi. cruise to Solomon Island.  Friday dawned 55 degrees with misting rain and 20-25 mph winds; an easy decision to go back to bed.  After a trip to West Marine for parts, we ate lunch at Cocomo's.  Dozier hosted a 5:30 cocktail hour for the entire marina with looper admirals providing appetizers.

May 19-21; Solomon's Island, MD: Bob (Second Wind), Robert (Sandpiper) and Larry met on Sandpiper at 6:30 AM Saturday to review the several weather buoy sites and wind forecasts to decide whether or not to try a run for Solomons.  In a close call, we three plus Happy Destiny decided to try it and dropped lines at 7:30 in 15 mph NNW winds.  Lola Marie ran aground in the cross currents of the Deltaville exit channel and required 10 min. to extricate herself, but then caught up with the others.  Waves were 2-3 ft. in the Bay until we reached the Potomac when they became uncomfortable 3-4's.  By midpoint of the river they became 4's with an occasional 5 footer.  Happy Destiny's dinghy broke its supports, so they stopped for a difficult temp fix while Second Wind's radar base required re-bolting during the roughest stretch.  There was brief radio traffic about aborting, but we decided to continue and in 30 min. waves returned to 2-3's.  Tossed and tired, we reached Zahniser's Yachting Center in Solomons, MD at 1:40 PM.  In contrast to last summer, we had no car so we chose to stay on the town side of Back Creek rather than returning to Calvert's.  After a comprehensive salt washdown and rest, calls to the others (who were at Calvert's Marina across Back Creek) arranged a 6 PM dinner at Stoney's Solomons Pier with Bob and Liz (Second Wind) and friends who had joined them, Bill and Vicki. Stoney's has the best crab cakes we have found in MD (no filler)!  As forecast, Sunday was again windy, but we enjoyed returning to Solomons UMC for their 9:15 service; it was only a 5 block walk.  We then took the dinghy to the Captain's Table for their outstanding creamy crab soup and burgers before walking another half mi. to Woodburn's Grocery to re-supply.  Monday still had 15 mph winds, but several boats tried leaving only to return; we interrogated the wind buoys, listened to others' radio reports and didn't try.  After enjoying an early lunch at the Captain's Table, Lola organized a dinghy flotilla of 10 loopers for outstanding dinners at Stoney's Kingfisher. 

Tuesday, May 22: Perfect boating weather; all AGLCA boats headed up the Bay around 7 AM!  We traveled with Sandpiper until passing the Bay Bridge when they headed for Baltimore on the western shore while we split off toward the eastern shore and the excellent Rock Hall Landings Marina.  We were treated to the Blue Angels practice over the Chesapeake as we approached Annapolis; they will entertain this weekend at the Naval Academy's midshipmen graduation. We found the eastern shore's relaxed ambiance alive and well in Rock Hall, MD and really enjoyed our brief stay.  After a delightful late lunch of crab soup and a cheese topped crab melt open sandwich at renowned Waterman's Crab House & Restaurant adjacent to the marina, we walked half a mile into the business district for a bit of shopping and wonderful ice cream at Durding's.

Wednesday, May 23: Casting off at 7:25, we again enjoyed smooth waters all 54 mi. to the mid-point of the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal and Summit North Marina, a large, rather isolated marina in Delaware's Lums Pond State Park.  Along the way we were again entertained by our military forces training. We entered the canal between a large container ship that overtook us earlier and a barge tow we had overtaken, but it was an uneventful passage with 2.5 mph current helping.  Jeanne Marie docked adjacent to us an hour after our 1 PM arrival.

Thursday, May 24: To take advantage of significant tidal currents in Delaware Bay, we followed Mike and Jeanne, on the Jeanne Marie, out at 5:35 AM!  Winds were negligible so the bay was delightful, in stark contrast to what many loopers have experienced.  Traveling at 8 mph plus up to 3 mph of current until noon, we covered the 67 mi. to the large, quality Utsh's Marina in Cape May, NJ by 1:15 PM.  We hadn't eaten a lunch so, to celebrate our successful Bay passage, we walked a block to the famous Lobster House for early dinners before showers.

May 25-31; Belmar, NJ: After yesterday's early departure, we slept in til 8:30 AM Friday.  It was time to start planning the next leg up the NJ coast.  We had originally planned to take the NJ ICW as far as possible, 114 mi.  But weather conditions were forecast to offer near perfect ocean boating for the Memorial Day weekend.  After getting advice from an AGLCA boater only 7 mi. from his home port and from completing his loop, Bob Hanold on Bonas IV, we decided to make an ocean run at cruising speed, 20 mph, for Belmar Marina, 106 mi. away; it was 10:45 AM before lines dropped.  Ocean conditions were perfect: 1 ft. swells and no waves. We passed Atlantic City, only 30 mi. north, in 1.5 hr. About 1 PM, the customary afternoon winds began building from the SE to 10-15 mph and, by 3 PM following waves became 2-3's.  Larry made a poor decision to duck in to the 25 mi. long Barnegat Bay at its inlet.  While well protected from wind, this stretch of the NJ ICW had numerous critically shallow stretches, a narrow, winding channel and substantial no-wake zones.  At the northern end of the Bay we entered Point Pleasant Canal; definitely not a pleasant experience with its 2-3 ft. cross-chop from boat wakes reflecting off the steel seawalls lining its banks.  These conditions added 9 mi., considerable stress and 1.5 hr. to the trip.  With a mandatory return to the Atlantic via the Manasquan Inlet, we quickly covered the now almost flat 7 mi. to the Shark River Inlet at Belmar, NJ.  After a 15 min. wait at its Route 71 bridge, we reached the excellent Belmar Marina at 6:40 PM, tired but satisfied with a pleasant ocean adventure.  To celebrate, we took local advice and walked a block to Jack's Tavern for an excellent steak dinner.  Saturday we rented a car for the week in order to see this area and to pick up Klaus and Sandy Leitem at Brewerton, NY on Friday where they will leave their car to boat with us for 8 days.  This enabled us to shop a bit in the area.  All normal boater needs except groceries are within a short walk from the marina, but "real" shops are 8 mi. or more away.  Sunday began with the 11 AM service at Belmar's First United Methodist Church.  While less than 20 attended, they were most friendly and we enjoyed their fellowship time before a fine seafood lunch at Klein's on the Shark River about 4 blocks from our boat. Next, we drove along Belmar's heavily populated beach and then north to Howell before returning at 5 PM.  Monday was devoted to preventative maintenance boat projects and to laundry.  Of course, this required trips to West Marine, Lowe's and a few other local shops.  Tuesday we drove 75 mi. to Atlantic City.  It was a beautiful day and 25 degrees cooler than the 104 high on last August's trip.  The slots were even less generous than before.  Wednesday was a day for nail refurbishing plus extended driving and shopping in the region.  The weather continues to be spectacular!  The last day of the month, Thursday, was another beautiful, but quite warm (89) day devoted to getting everything ready for the next exciting leg of the trip, New York and the Hudson River.

Water miles traveled to date: 8005; this month: 789.

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