Trip Diary for July, 2010

July 1-8; Croton-on-Hudson, NY:  Thursday provided cool, perfect weather.  Larry rented a from car from Enterprise and we drove to West Point, a beautiful 15 mi. trip north along the eastern Hudson shore for a bus tour (the only style still available) of the Academy and its Museum. While the grounds are impressive, one gets to stop only twice.  The highlight was going inside the chapel. The day's disappointment: the on-line reservation system for Lady Liberty and Ellis Island reported the first available date was July 9th!  Friday's plan B: drive north 43 mi. to Hyde Park, NY.  It was a wonderful alternative.  We departed about 10 AM to spent over 3 hrs. at the FDR home, Springwood, and the nation's first presidential library/museum with its section of the Berlin Wall. We next drove 2 mi. north to tour the Frederick Vanderbilt Mansion. Returning we stopped at Chico's in Poughkeepsie, but to Larry's great disappointment, it was 10 minutes after closing.  We departed Saturday at 7:20 AM to return Sharon to Philadelphia for her return flight and then 35 mi. further south to pick up our car in Bear, DE.  Fortunately, the only traffic problem was crossing the Hudson via the George Washington Bridge; we reached the PHL-airport 2.5 hr. before her 12:40 flight.  The return drive was more dramatic.  After a 45 min. wait at the George Washington Bridge toll gate, traffic prevented Lola's attempt to follow Larry's car at the almost immediate I-95 exit.  Now separated, without GPS guidance, and in a bit of panic, she took the next exit into a NY neighborhood feeling lost.  The walkie-talkies we use were already out of range, but cell phones established communication.  She quickly spotted a familiar landmark: McDonalds, and pulled into its lot.  This allowed Larry, who had quickly exited I-87, to use his GPS to drive through neighborhood streets to her location.  Reunited, we now successfully returned to I-87 for the 35 mi. drive to the boat, arriving about 7:30.  By 8:30 we were down for the night!  Sunday was a day for R&R.  We enjoyed a wonderfully friendly 10 AM service at the small (40 attendees) Asbury UMC. Following that service we drove 3 block up a steep hill to view its historic (1780) chapel and were treated by the passing choir director with an opportunity to go inside. After returning to the boat for a light lunch of leftovers, we napped and read before leaving at 4 PM for an incredibly picturesque 12 mi. drive (thru curves and hills completely overhung with trees) to Mount Kisco where Lola shopped at Chico's before we enjoyed a McDonalds dinner at a nearby village.  Afternoon temps reached 94 and, as has been the case since our arrival, winds of 10-20 mph kept the boat rocking all day. The evening was devoted to web and financial records updating.  Sunsets here can be glorious. Monday was a day for working at the boat until 3 PM when we drove into town to do 5 loads of laundry.  The wind about which we had been complaining finally died with temps reaching 98; teaches us to stop complaining!  Tuesday's temps set a 10-year record for here: 101 and still 90 at 10 PM; thanks to the Lord for air conditioning!  After spending the morning aboard ironing, sending Exchange Club quarterly statements and preparing picture and video CD's of our Snake River Adventure for loopers who accompanied us, we drove to several nearby towns to mail things and to shop for groceries and printer ink.  Wednesday was devoted to moving our car 245 mi. to Ess-Kay Yards in Brewerton, NY where it will reside until we haul the boat there this September.  We departed at 6:50 AM and returned at 5 PM, just in time to join loopers Bob and Marily Peterson and their friend Ed aboard Cruisn' Cat for wine and munchies.  We appreciated having spent the hottest part of the day north and in the Catskill foothills where it was 10 degrees cooler than the record 103-day in Croton-on-Hudson.  Thursday was overcast until 4 PM, providing welcome relief from recent sweltering days; high was only 89.  Larry returned the rental at 9 AM and we spent the day aboard doing numerous tasks in preparation for departure with several consecutive days on the move.

Friday, July 9; Kingston, NY: Pumping-out before departing with Crusin' Cat at 7:45 AM allowed us to take advantage of a 2-3 mph favorable tide current; we enjoyed riding it the entire 58 mi. to Rondout Yacht Basin in warm, but good weather.  It was fun seeing from the water places we had visited: West Point Academy and Vanderbilt mansion, but the sheer beauty of the Hudson is also inspiring as this view near Peekskill demonstrates. With the great tide current, we arrived at 1:10 with plenty of time to take on a bit of fuel before docking.  Lola made her chocolate chiffon pie for tonight's joint dessert.  Using the dink to cross Rondout Creek, we enjoyed drinks aboard Crusin' Cat before having fantastic gourmet dinners at Ship to Shore.  Larry then ferried everyone back to the Lola Marie for pie and then Crusin' Cat's crew back aboard.

Saturday, July 10; Troy, NY: Yesterday's perfect weather was not replicated; we dropped lines at 7:40 AM in fairly heavy rain with light fog; Crusin' Cat again following.  Initially, visibility was about 1/2 mi., but both hard rain and fog gradually gave way to just a light rain until nearly 11 when it finally stopped with just clouds; thus temperatures reached only 80.  Tide currents gradually built from 0 to 2.5 mph during that interval and continued all the way to Troy Docks which we reached at 2:10 PM.  After fueling and starting air conditioners, we researched tomorrow's entry into the Champlain Canal and locks before having great Mexican food at the nearby Jose' Malone's Mexican-Irish Restaurant.

Sunday, July 11; Champlain Canal: We left dock at 7:40 for the 1 mi. "cruise" to our first lock: the Troy Federal Lock.  It required only a 10 min. wait for this 12 ft. lockage.  We were now in fresh water after 18 months of salt water; it felt great, with the only downside being many more spiders!  Instead of going left, as we did on our first loop, we continued straight at the Waterford split and soon reached Champlain Lock C1.  It required a 15 min. wait and, as do all Champlain locks, used grungy hanging ropes to hold the boat (see white/blue floats along lock wall).  Much of this beautiful canal is no wake because of docked boats.  That, plus a 20 min. wait at Lock C2, and two more locks without waits resulted in a 1:20 arrival even though we covered only 28 mi.  The Schuyler Yacht Basin has especially hospitable owners, Phil and Judy Dean.  At 5 PM we walked 4 blocks into town for excellent dinners at Dovegate Inn, a Bed & Breakfast/Restaurant.

July 12-13; Lake Champlain, Whitehall, NY: Needing to pass 7 locks Monday while covering 36 mi. we cast-off at 6:50 AM to reach Lock C5, 1 mi. away, for its scheduled 7 AM operating start; the lockmaster arrived 10 min. late, so we waited, but in a peacefully beautiful setting. The surprise at C6 was its incredible inventory of tow boats and barges. After 5 without waits, the final lock, C12 (C10 does not exist), required a 10 min. delay.  We arrived in picturesque Whitehall, NY at Lock 12 Marina earlier than anticipated: 12:50 PM on a beautiful day of sunshine with an 87 degree high.  Light leftovers for lunch allowed us to enjoy fine 5:30 PM dining at bargain early-bird prices at the on-site Finch & Chubb Restaurant (note docked Lola Marie below dining window) After sunset, Larry repaired the plug on our 50 Amp cord that had overheated due to loose contacts while Lola ironed the afternoon's washing.  It was great to sleep-in Tuesday morning after 4 straight moving days.  After a morning of boat projects and establishing Skype accounts in anticipation of our forthcoming Canada travel, we took the town's newly available taxi to McDonald's, 2 mi. away, for lunch.  Walking back we stopped along the way at the pharmacy/grocery store and post office to acquire supplies and mail birthday cards.  This small, old city gives the appearance of struggling economically.  Dinner was aboard.  It began raining about 8:30, continued until 1 AM with precipitation totally 1.5 in.

Wednesday, July 14; Fort Ticonderoga: Needing to cover only 19 mi. we departed at 8:15 in cloudy 71-degree weather, running on a single engine making 7.5 mph.  We docked at Chipman Point Marina on the VT shore at 10:50 with Lola piloting all the way!  Another gold looper, Kokomo II with Owen and Linda Schwaderer, also stopped here and invited us to join them in the marina's loaner car to visit Fort Ticonderoga, site of the first major American military victory of the Revolutionary War. While only 4 mi. across the lake from our marina, the auto path required 12 mi. and a cable ferry ride. We had a delightful lunch and afternoon tours before returning at 4:30 PM  Given our isolated location, dinner aboard was the only option.

July 15-17; Westport, NY: Thursday was another short 27 mi. hop, but across the lake to the NY side.  We left at a leisurely 9 AM with Lola again piloting the entire trip on an absolutely flat lake. Fort Ticonderoga's cannon array looked intimidating from the water. We arrived at Westport Marina at 12:45 PM.  Water has finally become clear like one expects of Lake Champlain.  Owen and Linda came aboard at 6 for wine and cheese before both couples enjoyed dinner at the on-site Galley restaurant.  Friday morning we walked 2 blocks and 75 ft. up the hill for delightful breakfasts at Me and My Girls Cafe and Bakery serving portions big enough to call it brunch.  The small town center is beautiful, with a unique structure on the central corner  and a Bessboro Shop with clothing, etc. that Lola enjoyed.  We spent much of the day trying to obtain the Enterprise car we had reserved.  The closest office was Middlebury, VT, but they don't cross the lake for pick-ups; thus, we agreed to dink across the lake to Harbor Basin Club where they would pick-up.  It began raining at 11 AM and continued until 3:30 PM; a great time to update photo albums, boat card files, this web and fix the chronically clogging pilothouse AC.  At 4 PM we left in the dink for Harbor Basin; unfortunately, our pickup arrived earlier than scheduled, got tired waiting and left.  Disappointed, we returned to the boat at 6 PM for a light dinner in The Galley.  After Saturday breakfast at Me and My Girls Cafe and Bakery we returned to do laundry and plan/make reservations for slips next week;  Burlington had nothing available for the weekend, so it was scratched from our destinations list.  After the big breakfast, a climb up the hill at 1:30 PM to The Inn's Ice Cream Parlor provided a sufficient lunch and Lola's third opportunity to visit Bessboro Shop.  The humidity and temp both moderated so we enjoyed dinner outside at The Galley.

July 18-19; Vergennes, VT: We cast-off Sunday at 6:50 AM, crossing the lake into picturesque Otter Creek.  Then it was another 8 mi. to the free public dock (elec. provided) just below the beautiful falls in the small community of Vergennes.  The falls are lighted at night with color changing lights.  The early departure enabled us to arrive by 9 AM.  We showered (aboard) before walking .5 mi. to the Vergennes United Methodist Church 10:30 AM service; we constituted 10 percent of its attendance.  Open restaurants did not appeal, so we returned to the boat for a lunch of leftovers, a nap and reading.  This town is historically famous for boat yards that constructed and launched the Saratoga within 40 days from starting to fell trees.  Saratoga was Commodore Macdonough's 26-gun flagship that lead a 9-ship American fleet (all built in Vergennes) to defeat the British navy in the Battle of Plattsburg in May, 1814. Larry grilled pork chops for dinner.  Tuesday started late, but we managed to walk into town in time for shopping before lunch at Luigi's Pizza & Subs.  Interior boat cleaning and record updating took all afternoon before Lola prepared an excellent chicken with rice dinner.

July 20-21; Essex, NY: Another "tough" 14 mi. Tuesday: 8 mi. out Otter Creek and across the Lake to Essex Marina; our 7:40 AM departure for the 2 hr. cruise gave an early arrival (before dockmaster came on duty, but other boaters helped us dock). After showers we climbed the hill (as IN flat-landers, we have had throughout the Hudson River Valley and Lake Champlain a major adjustment: constantly needing to go uphill and/or around curves to get anyplace) and walked 4 blocks by magnificent stone homes in nearly perfect weather (high was 82).  We then enjoyed great clam chowder plus fish and chips at the Old Dock House Restaurant.  An Essex Ice Cream Parlor stop plus a couple recycle shops completed our return.  The on-board afternoon was devoted to washing blinds and windows before going next door to The Rudder Club for wonderful dinners with gorgeous views of Vermont's Green Mountains in the background. Wednesday was a day to sleep in, enjoy the great facilities and quiet ambiance of Essex Marina (best captured by marina operator Barry's laid-back opening philosophy: ) while basking in 80 degree weather between the Green Mountains to the east and Adirondacks to the west.  We left the boat only for essentials, walking 3 blocks up to the Essex Ice Cream Parlor for excellent Hershey's ice cream.  It began raining at 4 PM and continued until 8:30; another good reason to stay aboard.

July 22-26; Plattsburgh, NY: We left at 7:40 AM Thursday, despite needing to make only 28 mi., because of forecast building winds for the widest section of the lake.  The forecast was accurate and by 9 AM NNW winds at 15 mph caused 2 ft. (occasional 3') waves; however, they were on the nose, so it was not an uncomfortable ride.  We reached the large Plattsburgh Boat Basin at 10:50.  After hamburgers (and wonderful desserts) at the on-site Naked Turtle we walked .5 mi into town in near perfect weather (high was 76).  Many stores were abandoned following closing of the town's military base and relocation to the mall, but Lola managed to find a few treasures at re-cycle shops.  The memorial to the historically important 1814 Plattsburgh naval victory was impressive (size perspective: Lola is seated below in blue blouse). Dinner replicated lunch.  We rented an Enterprise car Friday at 9 AM.  A ferry ride took us across the Lake to Grand Isle, VT.  From there we continued to Waterbury (50 mi. one way) to the Ben & Jerry's ice cream factory. That great stop with samples of Chocowlatte, vanilla ice cream with chocolate cows, plus shopping in delightful Burlington, VT and grocery shopping in Plattsburgh produced a 9 PM return to the boat.  Saturday morning we drove 50 mi. to Saranac Lake to board the Adirondack Scenic Rail for its 10 mi., 2 1/4 hr. round trip to Lake Placid. It was a delightful, scenic ride. In order to take good pictures we rode up in the open-air car and enjoyed the luxury of better seats and air conditioning on the return. Since the train station didn't take us close to Lake Placid village, upon returning we drove up through that area and continued on the road to Whiteface Mountain, the highest peak and ski slopes for the 1932 and 1980 Olympics; unfortunately, the summit road closed for the day at 4 PM, 30 min. before our arrival.  However, we did get to see the toll gate and stop at nearby North Pole, NY before completing a circular path back to the boat.  During our absence, Ed and Linda Brennan, gold loopers on Shore Thing also doing the Rideau Canal loop this summer, and their daughter docked here.  We last saw them in Clearwater, FL; they stopped by for munchies and updates.  Sunday began with the 10:30 AM service at Plattsburgh UMC. After lunch and a short nap we drove 12 mi. south on Route 9 to the beautiful Ausable Chasm. After turning in the rental car Monday we returned to work on laundry, ironing, boat cleaning and assorted maintenance projects.  The weather was a sunny, delightful 80 degrees, but it was not a good boating day: winds were 20 mph with gusts to 40!  Dinner was at the Naked Turtle.

July 27-28; Burton Island State Park, VT: Lines dropped Tuesday at 8:15 AM for the 17 mi. cruise to beautiful, isolated Burton Island State Park Marina with its campground ambience (including evening campfires).  We chose to not request an opening for the stated 17 ft. Grand Isle Bridge.  Unfortunately, a low-hanging angle iron touched the anchor light and broke off its casing; another boat project for Larry.  We stopped just after the bridge to fuel at Ladd's Landing Marina, the cheapest ($3.30) place to fuel in the region.  All this still gave an arrival time before 11; perfect for docking and a great lunch at the island sandwich shop.  By evening the temperature had gradually climbed to the mid-80 and we started the AC as Larry grilled pork chops for dinner aboard.  Wednesday was beautiful, but quite windy; fortunately, we had not planned to move, but our dinghy survey of the area was scrubbed.

July 29-31; Rouses Point, NY: We departed Thursday at 7:55, timed to make the scheduled 8:30 Grand Isle Bridge opening (choosing to avoid breaking the anchor light again).  Winds were much higher than yesterday's forecast: NW 12-20 with 30 mph gusts.  We made the bridge opening without a wait, turning into 3-4 waves on the starboard quarter; thus, it wasn't too uncomfortable.  With only 26 mi. to cover and the lake narrowing (waves decreasing) as we moved north, we reached Marina Lighthouse at 10:45 AM, just 1 mi. south of the Canadian border.  With the front having past, the sunny day's high was only 75.  After an afternoon of dealing with the mail package Sharon Hawks had sent ahead, we walked up the dock at 5 PM to the on-site outstanding Italian San Marino Restaurant for its early-bird fish dinners.  Except for a 5 block into town for Lola to get a haircut (too busy to take her), we spent all day Friday aboard.  Enterprise from Plattsburgh (20 mi. south) picked us up at 10 AM Saturday.  After Larry's haircut and Lola's pedicure, we ate lunch before driving over the Rouses Point bridge to visit the town of St. Albans, VT, stopping along the way at orchards and farmer's markets in perfect 75 degree weather; tonight's forecast is for 49 degrees!

Water miles traveled to date on this second loop: 6,083; this month: 335

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