Trip Diary for November, 2008

Saturday, Nov. 1:  We planned to go only 39 mi. to New Site, MS Bay Springs Marina because the next 21 mi. of the Tenn-Tom has 4 locks.  We departed at 9:35 AM in picture-perfect weather, a high of 70 and 0-5 mph winds.  Cranking up the CD player, we listened to music while moseying along at 8 mph to reach the marina just above the first of 12 Tenn-Tom locks, by 2:35 PM; a totally relaxing trip.  "The Divide Cut," that section of the Tenn-Tom created by a 24 mi. long, riprap-lined, dug channel constituted the bulk of today's travel, so it was nice to reach the beautiful Bay Springs Lake section to experience more picturesque banks.

Sunday, Nov. 2:  The closest Methodist church was 18 mi. away with 11 AM being its only service.  Thus, we chose to forego that opportunity for a full day of lockages (six!).  Set the alarm for 6 AM with a planned departure at 7 (first good light), but forgot we our "smart" clock automatically changes from daylight to standard time; thus, it was already light when it rang.  After quickly starting coffee, Larry called the Whitten lockmaster (1.5 mi. away) to ask about any delay for pleasure craft (lowest on the priority list).  He reported the chamber would be ready in 20 minutes, so we quickly dressed and dropped lines at 6:25 AM CST.  We made the Whitten and Montgomery locks with zero wait, locking with two other pleasure boats.  However, the crisp morning air on the still warm (65 degree) water made a light morning fog.  We used radar until reaching Montgomery.  These are all down locks; much easier than an up lockage.  We arrived at Rankin lock just as a tow was starting down, so the wait was 30 minutes.  Weather was again ideal for boating: sunny with 5 mph breeze!  Since the tow was now in front of us, we puttered along at only 6 mph for the 8 mi. to the next lock and still waited 25 min. to enter.  Exiting just in time for lunch aboard, we enjoyed cheese and crackers, beautiful scenery and gorgeous weather as we slowly (5-6 mph) move downstream 15 mi. to Wilkins lock where we had a full hour wait as tows were going both down and up.  By now there were four pleasure boats locking down together.  We reached Amory lock, 5 mi. downstream, to experience only a 10 min. wait, but it was now 4 PM and daylight was dwindling fast on this new time (sunset was 5 PM).  We wanted to make Aberdeen Marina 13 mi. downstream before dark because its entry is challenging.  Forgoing economy, we ran at 19 mph for most of that stretch.  Even so, it was still virtually dark as we entered the marina's 3/4 mi. channel winding through cypress tree knees.  Using the bow light with Lola on the foredeck identifying channel markers, we managed to reach Aberdeen's lighted dock at 5:35 PM.  We quickly registered, checked out keys to their '92 Lincoln courtesy car, finished connecting the boat and left on a 13 mi. drive to Amory for a Pizza Hut dinner.

Monday, Nov. 3:  A leisurely 8:40 AM start after fueling at the lowest prices we've seen, $3.10.  With a call ahead before the 1 mi. exit to the Aberdeen lock we had no wait (same at Stennis lock 24 mi. downstream).  More picture perfect weather with a high of 77.  We traveled at a gentle 8 mph all 52 mi. to Pirate's Marina Cove, a small, but well protected marina immediately above the Bevill lock.  The sky just south of Columbus, MS was filled with Air Force pilots training out of that base.  Fall tree colors are late this year, but were beginning to show well on these more picturesque reaches of the Tenn-Tom.  The further south we traveled the greater the bird population: blue herons, white egrets, and cormorants were the most numerous.  Five mi. above Bevill we saw a large flock of white pelicans!  Monday is a bad day for restaurants in southern small towns.  With nothing open anywhere close, we skipped the courtesy car for dinner and showered aboard to retire early before a long day tomorrow.

Nov. 4-5; Demopolis, AL:  With two locks and 92 mi. to cover Tuesday, we dropped lines as soon as the Bevill lockmaster advised us the lock only 1 mi. downstream would be ready when we arrived: 6:20 AM!  There was a light fog at and below the lock, but not a serious problem.  The Heflin lock required a 20 min. wait.  We met three tows today, the first two rounding sharp curves so they appeared suddenly with little warning.  However, tow captains always advised us which side was best to pass.  This stretch of the Tenn-Tom includes some of its most picturesque areas, e.g. the white cliffs of Epes.  We reached Demopolis Yacht Basin at 4:25 and were quickly directed to a tee dock end.  Tired from a long day, we enjoyed dinner at the on-site New Orleans Bar & Grill, showered and went bed early.  Wednesday was a day for boat chores and refueling.  Using the courtesy vehicles allowed us to have a McDonalds' lunch, replenish groceries & supplies at Wal-Mart, and visit the post office.  With rest and time, we had a light dinner aboard.

Thursday, Nov. 6:  Hoping for another early start, we were ready to cast-off at 5:40 PM in minimal light and light fog.  Unfortunately, the Demopolis lockmaster advised us it would be two hours before he could accommodate recreational vessels.  We left with three others at 7:10 to creep downstream 3 mi. to the lock.  Of course, locking after such a wait means the tows are also ahead of you at the next stop.  So we continued quite slowly to the next lock to avoid an extended wait.  We lost all cell service for the next 40 mi. below Demopolis.  Ultimately, we met 6 tows and overtook the two that had delayed our lockages.  Needing to make up time to reach Bobby's Fish Camp before dark, we chose to travel at cruise speed for 20 min.; an unfortunate decision.  Because we had been traveling on flat river waters with the dinghy covered, Larry had installed only the minor two bottom straps and left the drain plug open.  He came off plane rather quickly as we finished the cruise speed stretch.  The large following boat wave quickly caught up with the dinghy, lifting it off its support arms.  While we heard the noise and quickly stopped, it was already filling with water.  Connecting it for towing, Larry crawled aboard to install the drain plug and turn on its bilge pump.  Order was restored, but the time saved by cruising was lost and towing precluded running at faster than 9 mph.  Thus, we reached Bobby's in the dark at 5:40 PM only to find all docks filled.  No boat answered our radio call, so Lola moved out on the bow to verbally request permission to raft-off.  Sea la vie agreed and helped us tie-off.  Fortunately, it was Thursday, so Bobby's was serving dinner (Thurs.-Sat. only).  We relaxed to one of his famous catfish dinners with the other docked boaters.  Before turning in, Larry loaded the dinghy and attached all four straps (leaving the drain plug installed).

Nov. 7-8; Mobile, AL:  Larry's call to the lockmaster at 5:30 AM Friday determined it to be available for recreational vessels.  Within 15 min. we and Sea la vie were carefully traveling in first light to the last of the dozen Tenn-Tom locks, Coffeeville.  The day's cruise was fairly uneventful with modest tow traffic until we neared Mobile.  The final potential delay, the CSX Twelve Mile Bridge, opened upon request so we thought 30 min. of cruising speed would allow us to dock before dark.  Confusing documentation about our targeted marina, Dog River Marina, caused us to plan for a 118 mi. course when in fact we needed to cover 134.5 mi.  We realized the error upon reaching Mobile Bay, but by then even running at cruise speed as soon as we had passed the many city docks got us to the marina at dark with all staff gone.  Fortunately, local boaters were especially helpful for docking.  The next day was a time to recuperate from two long, rather hectic days on the water.  We had a delightful lunch at the nearby Mobile Yacht Club with an incredible chocolate cheesecake dessert.  Next was the on-site West Marine Express store to acquire charts for the Gulf Intercoast (GIWW) and western FL (these had been loaned to us on the previous loop).  Dog River Marina has an outstanding service department.  For example, even this boat is being restored.

Sunday, Nov. 9:  Departed at 6:10 AM, we found 1-2 ft. waves quartering our aft port for the first 20 mi. across Mobile Bay.  However, the ride was not bad and waves gradually smoothing to a 1 ft. chop for the last 10 mi.  By 10:30 AM we had docked at LuLu's (Lucy Buffet's restaurant at MM 155 on the GIWW) for a fine lunch: crab melt and a grouper fillet.  We spotted our first dolphins at MM 160.  On our previous loop we encountered little commercial traffic, but today we met two tows and overtook two.  By 3:35 PM we reached The Beach Marina in Pensacola Beach, FL.  After the large lunch, we had munchies onboard and then walked 2 blocks to the excellent beach shops for ice cream and gift shopping.

Monday, Nov. 10:  Needing to cover only 35 mi., we left at a more leisurely 7:45 AM for Brooks Bridge Marina, a small, but very nice marina right on the GIWW at Ft. Walton Beach, FL.  Waves on the west end of Santa Rosa Sound were 2-3 ft., but directly on the nose so the ride was not uncomfortable.  Even running at only 8 mph, we docked at noon.  This allowed a relaxed afternoon before walking across the highway for a very good dinner at High Tide.

Nov. 11-13; Panama City, FL:  East winds picked up overnight  to 10-15 mph.  We nervously departed at 6:15 AM for the 25 mi. ride across the huge Choctawhatchee Bay.  Waves were again 2-3 with an occasional 4, but on the nose so it was very similar to yesterday on the Santa Rosa.  Wind gradually decreased throughout the day until our next open water reach, West Bay near Panama City, was totally flat and filled with dolphins!  Surprising, Larry was able to get several great pictures as they swam along the boat.  We reached the huge, beautiful Bay Point Marina at 2:15 PM.  It's a great, but isolated marina so we enjoyed a wonderful, albeit pricey dinner at the on-site Marriot's Kingfish restaurant.  Wednesday was a day for a thorough boat cleaning, both inside and out.  We started a puzzle after dinner aboard.  Thursday was primarily devoted to packing for our planned trip to Cordova, TN to house- and animal-sit at our older daughter's home while Judy and Glen enjoyed an 8-day Caribbean cruise he had won for auto sales at his Ford dealership in Southaven, MS.

Nov. 14-29; Cordova, TN: Larry was up early Friday for a cab ride to the airport for the 7 AM opening of the National Car Rental counter for a one-way car to Memphis.  We then drove 670 mi. through Joe Wheeler State Park for Lola to pick up our Lincoln.  Larry then diverted past Grand Harbor Marina to pick up a dock line we had forgotten last Oct. It was 10:30 before we made Cordova.    Larry received lessons Saturday on feeding 2 dogs and the cat (including medicating Judy's 14-year old Yorkie).  At 7 AM Sunday morning we drove Judy and Glen to the airport and returned via the 8:30 AM service at Germantown UMC.  We mostly rested Monday and worked up snail mail that Sharon Hawks had sent.  Tuesday we met Lola's brother, Jim Kater, his wife Barbara and their son Jamie and his wife Debbie in Tunica.  Judy called Wednesday with a cruise report: winds and waves had been terrible!  She had been seasick for much of the voyage and the ship had been unable to dock at one of its planned ports of call.  Thursday-Saturday were spent housekeeping and shopping in the Memphis area.  The animals learned to better appreciate those who were feeding them. Glen and Judy returned Sunday afternoon with the household returning to normal operations by Monday.  During this fall's AGLCA Rendezvous in Rogersville, AL a presentation convinced us XM Weather services were worth the cost, especially for the Gulf crossing and other large saltwater bays and sounds.  The GXM30 antenna ordered to activate that service arrived Tuesday and Larry tried unsuccessfully to activate it with our GPSMap 478.  Ultimately, tech support determined the antenna was defective and must be returned.  Following a quick afternoon trip to Tunica we returned in time to welcome Samantha home from the Univ. of Tenn. for her Thanksgiving break.  Wednesday-Saturday provided a wonderful Thanksgiving period with family. An appropriate balance of football, shopping and one more Tunica visit kept everyone happy.

Sunday, Nov.30: It was now time to return to life aboard.  The drive to Panama City began after attending the 8:30 service at Germantown UMC.  We reached the boat about 8:30 PM to find it rocking in 25 mph winds that produced significant harbor waves and difficult sleeping, but otherwise everything was in fine shape despite the long absence.

Water miles traveled to date: 1,825; this month: 638

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