Trip Diary for August, 2011
Aug. 1-6; W. Lafayette, IN: The week was devoted to final prep for the return to Canada.
Aug. 7-10; Louisville, IN: A wonderful annual ASABE meeting with an opportunity to again connect with professional colleagues! Larry assisted with the Society's first ever Order of the Engineer ceremony that inducted 50 individuals. Bob and Ann Levine drove up from Nashville, TN to spend Monday evening with us and to attend the Purdue ABE Breakfast Tuesday morning.
Aug. 11-14; Buckhorn, ON: We departed Thursday at 8 AM to return to the boat, Larry driving the rental and Lola our Lincoln. The first stop was Wolf's Marine in Benton Harbor, MI to purchase bottom paint and then park our car at Pier 1000. We over-nighted in Port Huron, MI near the Canadian border. Despite Friday's terrible traffic delays in Toronto, we made it back to Reach Harbour by 3 PM. Saturday Larry applied the first coat of bottom paint while Lola cleaned inside. Sunday saw completion of the final coat of bottom paint and a challenging installation of a new float switch in the sump box that drains bathroom sinks.
Monday, Aug. 15; Bobcaygeon, ON: We departed Reach Harbour at 7 AM, followed by Donny in Jamie's truck, to drive 22.5 mi. into Peterborough to return our rental (despite their advertising slogan of "We'll Pick You Up", they declared we were too far away for their service. As scheduled, Pursey's Hauling Service arrived promptly at 9 AM. Launch was flawless and we dropped lines at 10:30 AM, finally on the water again! The weather was ideal for boating with temps in the high 70s. Making a leisurely re-engagement with boating, we travelled only 21 mi. through 2 locks to dock above Lock #32 at 1:30 PM in the delightful village of Bobcaygeon. Spotted many loons along today's water. A late, delightful lunch at nearby Embers restaurant was topped off at 7:30 PM with a .7 mi. walk between rain showers to the Kawartha Dairy for their superb ice cream.
Tuesday, Aug. 16; Orillia, ON: We cast off in superb weather at 6:55 AM (locks were now on summer schedule: 8:30-7:00). The day's highlight was the 47' Kirkfield hydraulic lock #36 on the highest elevation waters of the Trent-Severn (840' above sea level); this and all future lockages would be the easier "down" locks with no turbulence swinging the boat. Our path included pass "Hole in the Wall." We had planned to make 39 mi. to tie below Lock #37, Bolsover. However, upon arrival at 1 PM we locked through with Phil and Karen Doucette aboard D-Termination. They reported tomorrow's forecast for the huge Lake Simcoe was not favorable. Given that info and the early hour, we concluded it best to follow D-Termination through Simcoe (20 extra mi. with 4 more locks). About 5 mi. out we contacted Bridge Port Marina on the VHF to reserve a slip for out 5 PM arrival. It was great to again have WiFi and electricity! We walked .5 mi. for great dinners at Just Eddie's Casual Diner before showering and returning to the boat; tired, but happy with the decision to cross Lake Simcoe when its reputed fearsome waves were never more than 1 ft. on the nose.
Wednesday, Aug. 17; Port Severn, ON: The morning began more leisurely with lines dropped at 8:35 AM. Weather was again beautiful, but slightly warmer at 72. We had decided the previous evening to try for Lock #45's upper wall; thus, we charted 43 miles with 3 distinctly different locks. The first, Couchiching, #42 with a 20' drop, after 12 mi. up a wide inland lake with few turns or land developments close to the boat path. The next 14 mi. to the 47' Swift Rapids Lock #43 was at the end of narrow, winding waters with intense development; mostly 6 mph speed limits. The final "lockage" was the unique Big Chute cable-driven marine railway that cradles the boat(s) in slings before transporting it up out of the water, across a highway, and down an 80 ft. incline on the other side. We made the last 8 miles between Big Chute and Port Severn Lock #45, the final one of the Trent-Severn system, to arrive at 3:30 PM. Another looper boat, Midnight Sun, owned by Robert and Ivie Wightman helped us dock. Shortly thereafter, D-Termination arrived to dock in front of us. The three couples met in the early evening to swap boating stories while enjoying drinks and munchies.
Aug. 18-19; Penetanguishene, ON: No wakeup alarm Thursday because we had only 1 lock and 16 mi. of travel to the delightful Bay Moorings Marina where we had enjoyed an AGLCA Rendezvous in 1997. We entered the Port Severn lock at 9:10 AM. After a winding route below the lock with high currents, and marker color switches after only 1.5 mi., we enjoyed an almost flat ride across the SE tip of the Georgian Bay. A couple of white swans provided a special view. Added 116 g. of diesel (5.18 Canadian$ per g.) upon arrival at 11:35 AM. Byron & Becky Dailey, Call of the Loon, greeted us shortly after we docked. We were docked in their old slip and they had noticed our gold looper burgee. They're from Orillia and plan to start their loop next spring. Friday was a beautiful day, high 82, for washing clothes and the boat, boat projects and planning the next phase of the trip through the small craft channel of the beautiful Georgian Bay. Byron took us to Foodland about 2 PM and then we went to their boat for wine and munchies at 4.
Saturday, Aug. 20; Nobel, ON: Henry's Fish Restaurant, 33 mi. away along the small craft channel, was the intermediate destination for today's 7:35 AM departure. The forecast was for rain, maybe thundershowers, and rising wind by mid-afternoon. Well, Canadian marine forecasts are no more accurate than those in the US! Winds began to pick up by 10 AM and light rain started at 10:30. By 11 we were in the middle of a moderately intense thunderstorm with 2+ ft. beam waves and very limited visibility. It was a challenge spotting the numerous, critical channel markers that keep one off granite boulders that are everywhere in these waters. One could rely only on the chart plotter's location icon when its GPS signal was slightly erratic during the storm event. Fortunately, the intense part of the thunderstorm lasted only 15 long minutes. We reached Henry's at 11:30, docked in light rain and then enjoyed outstanding pickerel dinners. Sun broke through during lunch, so we quickly departed because Henry's radar showed another storm moving across Lake Huron. We made the final 17 mi. to the Killbear Marina located in the very protected Pengallie Bay at 2:30. Light rain soon began, but it didn't stop us from enjoying dinner at the on-site Ship-Shore Restaurant. To our delight, DirecTV again started receiving "local" Indy network stations; made one feel we are getting close to home. Larry spent a couple hours plotting courses for the next 118 mi. to Killarney while Lola knitted and read.
Sunday, Aug. 21; Britt, ON: Having deferred slip payment upon arrival, it was necessary to wait until the office opened at 8 AM to enable an 8:10 departure. It was a cool 65 with an overcast sky, but NW winds were only 5 mph; perfect weather for power boaters. Temperatures increased only 4 degrees throughout the 49 mi. trip. By 11:15 AM a light rain started and continued until our 1:45 PM arrival at Wright's Marina. We saw some unique cottage designs and several loons along the trip. We continue to be amazed at the density of granite boulders everywhere; watching for channel markers was a full-time task for both of us (enough time on a rock for this year). Passing Canada's most photographed lighthouse, Pointe au Baril, was a highlight. While a courtesy car was available at the marina, we chose instead to relax, Facetime/Skype with children before the marina's internet crashed and enjoy a dinner of left-overs aboard capped with delicious Kawartha ice cream from a nearby vendor.
Monday, Aug. 22; Killarney, ON: Trying to beat forecast increasing afternoon winds and with 65 mi. to cover, we cast-off at 7: AM. Winds were already 10-15. Waves on mid-section 20 mi. of open water were 2 ft. and 2-3 on the last open stretch coming into Killarney; however, they were on the nose except for 2 miles of uncomfortable beam ones. It was mostly sunny, but quite cool: 57 at departure with a high of 69. Collins Inlet was the highlight: 15 mi. of protected waters bound by high granite cliffs. We made Sportman's Inn Marina's outstanding new facilities at 2:40 PM. After docking and checking in, we walked through this small town (430 pop.) for a bit of shopping before picking up fish and chips at the famous Herbert's Fishery. We brought these to the boat to eat (too windy for outside only dining at Herbert's).
Aug. 23-25; Little Current, ON: Taking advantage of typically lighter early winds, we deferred breakfast to drop lines at a record (for us) 6:40 AM Tuesday for the short 23 mi. to Port of Little Current docks. After a 5 min. wait for the hourly Little Current swing bridge opening, we docked at 9:15 AM leaving an entire day to enjoy this delightful community and to work on boat projects. Weather was nearly perfect and we had the entire day to shop and relax. Winds and rain Wednesday made cruising unwise (including an afternoon tornado watch), but it's a great place to be "blown-in"; fortunately, the town dock began a 50 percent discount for dockage on the 22nd. Bob and Peggy Olsen, loopers aboard Baby Grand whom we first met in Clearwater, FL in 2009, came over from a nearby dock for a nice visit. At 2:45 Roy Eaton, creator/controller of the Little Current Yacht Club Cruisers' Net, stopped by to welcome us and visit for 45 min. The Cruisers' Net is a daily VHF channel 71 radio service/program that keeps boaters informed of all sorts of vital information, including who is in the region. Thursday's highlight was going to Anchor Inn at 8:45 to observe Roy's Cruisers' Net operation; in all, 11 visitors attended the 45 min. session during which 65 boaters reported in via VHF. We gave Roy a copy of Ron and Eva Stob's book "Honey, Let's Get a Boat." Late morning winds exceeded 20 mph; a good day to be in port.
Friday, Aug. 26; Back into the US: Our 55th wedding anniversary! The past two days' winds finally died overnight so we cast-off at 6:40 AM, planning a 60 mi. cruise in mostly deep, open waters to Meldrum Bay Marina. Conditions were totally flat. It was nice to again leave steering to the autopilot and watch only for other boats and floating objects rather than hundreds of nearby granite boulders. When we reached the point for turning into Meldrum Bay about 11:30 PM we decided conditions were too nice to waste and continued instead to Drummond Island Yacht Haven. In order to arrive at a good time, we increased speed from our normal 9 to 20 mph for an hour. SW winds picked up in the afternoon to 10-12; still not a problem until we crossed False DeTour Channel. With winds blowing into and straight up that channel, we saw 2-3 ft. beam waves for about 7 mi.; we quartered them to reduce rolling. The Canadian Courtesy burgee was changed to a quarantine flag upon crossing the international water border midway along Drummond Island. After 95 mi. we reached Yacht Haven at 3:55 with a Custom's Officer waiting at the dock; no problem checking back into the US. We next switched the gold burgee to platinum, signifying completing the loop more than once (the Lola Marie was also at Drummond Island in the spring of 2007)! Upon checking in, owner Dennis Bailey made reservations for us at Bayside Dining. We rented the marina's vintage, diesel Mercedes (228,000 mi.) to drive 5 mi. for truly fabulous dinners celebrating both our anniversary and completion of our second loop! Lola enjoyed an 11 oz. lobster tail and Larry had halibut; the restaurant generously provided delicious complementary desserts!
Aug. 27-28; Mackinaw City, MI: Taking advantage of a continuing weather window, we departed Saturday at 6:50 AM, experiencing a 3 mi. wide fog band in the DeTour Passage to Lake Huron with visibility less than 1/4 mi; radar and onboard foghorn helped get us safely through. 10 mph N winds were producing 1 ft. waves, but they gradually subsided to give flat conditions by 10 AM. We had to dodge only a single fish net, shortly after exiting the Passage. It was a delightful cruise until we reached Mackinac Island. For the 8 mi. from there to Mackinaw City we were constantly trying to stay out of the path of a dozen high-speed shuttles between the Island and city; their wakes were a major hazard. We safely entered Mackinaw City Municipal Marina at 12:55 PM, immediately stopping at the fuel dock to take on 200 gal. ($4.09 per). After checking in we walked a block to Mackinaw Crossing for a pizza lunch at Bugout Diner and Kilwin's ice cream. Sunday began with the 11 AM service at The Church of the Straits, a merged Presbyterian and Methodist congregation. Today was a special Christian Country music-only program presented by the Colmus Family from Nashville. After fish-n-chips leftovers for lunch aboard, we took advantage of this marina's excellent laundry facilities before walking 4 blocks to the grocery store. Dinner was ashore at Scalawag's White Fish & Chips, a place we appreciated 4 year's ago with Sandy and Klaus on our first loop.
Aug. 29-30; Charlevoix, MI: We left port at 6:55 AM Monday with the sun illuminating "Mighty Mac." The winds apparently did not get the forecast and had not died overnight; W-winds produced 2 ft. nose waves for the 18 mi. Mackinac Straits. However, they gradually diminished as we turned south. Again, we spotted only a single fish net, this one well to port of the shipping channel we followed through the Straits. A 9 AM phone call to Harbor Springs Municipal cast doubt on slip availability; they don't accept reservations. Thus, we called the Charlevoix Municipal, secured a reservation for two nights at this new marina, altering cruise directions accordingly. About 15 mi. from Charlevoix winds had shifted to SW and were picking up again. The last 10 mi. were with 2-3 ft. waves on our starboard quarter; only modestly uncomfortable. By running for 30 min. we completed the 60 mi. to Charlevoix's channel lighthouse and its bridge at 12:20, waiting 10 min. for the bridge's scheduled opening (every half-hour) before docking on the tee-end of D-dock. Naturally, this arrival time enabled an extended shopping tour of the adjacent village shops after lunch aboard. Dinner was also aboard before walking 2 blks to Kilwin's for ice cream. Tuesday was a day to sleep-in and totally relax while enjoying a superb boating city. Larry replaced the electronic display/head of the Tridata depth sounder, temp. and speed transducer that had been operating intermittently for the past 2 weeks while Lola organized things aboard. In mid-afternoon we took a "cultural walk" through the area, particularly enjoying the 10 of the town's 28 famous, beautiful "stone homes with mushroom roofs" designed by Earl Young including his "half house". Both lunch and dinner, thanks to wonderful white fish dip from Cross Fisheries, were aboard.
Wednesday, Aug. 31; Frankfort, MI: We dropped lines for the 7:30 AM bridge opening on a cloudy day with infrequent sprinkles of rain. The wind forecast again missed reality; forecast was South at below 6 mph when it was actually SE at 10-15. Waves were 1-2 to begin, built to 2-3 and for an hour were 2-4; we quartered for several miles to control discomfort. Definitely the most uncomfortable waters since Lake Ontario in June. Northern Lake Michigan has its deepest water; our deepest today was 550 ft. Originally planning to stop in Leland, but now having lost faith in tomorrow's similarly favorable forecast, we decided to bypass it for Frankfort. Just below N. Manitou Island we dodged our only fish net, but several boats reported quite a good day for salmon. We covered the 77 mi. to dock at the excellent Jacobson Marina Resort at 3:45 PM. After Larry handled a 30 min. phone consultation about computer problems at Crawfordsville's Wesley Thrift Shop we walked a block into town for good dinners at Villa Marine Bar & Grill; The Cool Spot supplied ice cream as we returned.
Water miles traveled to date on this second loop: 7,455; this month: 613
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